Leonardo da Vinci is reputable as the painter of the Mona Lisa and a visionary inventor who conceptualized flying machines long before the Wright Brothers, however, there is much more to his legacy. Very few people know that Leonardo also dedicated significant time to researching and experimenting with fragrances. The exhibition “Leonardo da Vinci and the Perfumes of the Renaissance,” currently on display until September 15, 2024, at the Château du Clos Lucé in Amboise, France—where he wrote his will, left his notebooks and sketches to his student, Francesco Melzi before passing away in 1519.

Leonardo da Vinci's passion for perfumes could be traced back to his enigmatic mother, Caterina. She is believed to have been an emancipated slave brought to Italy from the Caucasus via Constantinople, although the details remain uncertain despite years of research. This intriguing aspect of Leonardo's life was discovered by Carlo Vecce, a professor of Italian literature at the University of Naples and the current exhibition's lead curator, as she documented her journey westward in his research.

Through themed rooms in the exhibition, visitors are taken on a journey to significant eras and locations in the lives of Caterina and Leonardo. Highlights include the fragrant markets of Constantinople, the court of Francis I, and the Spezieri shops in Venice, known for their trade in medicinal preparations. The journey also explores Leonardo's roots in Tuscany, his workshop in Florence, and the grandeur of the Sforza Palace in Milan.

Leonardo meticulously collected various commercially available scents and documented their recipes in detail, many derived from oils, flowers, animal and vegetable fats. In his Codex Forster, he provided insights into distillation and maceration processes: “Remove that yellow surface which covers oranges and distill them in an alembic until the distillation may be said to be perfect.”

In the Renaissance era, perfumes were often burned in devices akin to incense holders to disguise unpleasant odors. Leonardo contributed to this innovation by designing several of these burners, one inspired by a bird called the "oiselet de cyphre". A modern replica of this device is featured in the exhibition, alongside Leonardo’s original notes.

Visitors can also experience the fragrant allure of a black amber necklace worn by the figure in Leonardo’s 1489 masterpiece, Lady with an Ermine. The exhibition further immerses guests in the sensory world of the Renaissance, showcasing recipe books that highlight the artistry of 15th-century perfumery, luxurious fashions that complemented the scents, and portraits by artists like Giovanni Pietro Rizzoli and Giovanni Antonio Boltraffio, all of which enhance the story of Renaissance opulence.

This exhibition showcases a variety of objects that illustrate the diverse uses of perfume during the 15th and 16th centuries, encompassing healing, religious practices, and aesthetic purposes. Attendees can view a range of items including books on medicinal formulas, apothecary jars, incense burners, scented rosaries, and even fragrant shoes. Additionally, a stunning collection of Renaissance paintings features the Italian nobility adorned with their aromatic accessories, enriching the overall experience.