A groundbreaking new photography book titled "1985" captures one of the most influential cultural movements of the 1980s, showcasing the revolutionary work of photographer Jamie Morgan and fashion stylist Ray Petri. The duo, who created the legendary Buffalo style movement, fundamentally transformed fashion photography and youth culture during a pivotal decade that gave birth to MTV, Nintendo, and a new wave of rebellious self-expression.

The book, published by Idea and available at Dover Street Markets worldwide, presents a collection of striking black-and-white photographs that defined the aesthetic of the 1980s. These images feature diverse casting that deliberately challenged societal norms, including racial diversity, gender fluidity, androgynous models, and muscular men wearing feminine clothing. The styling drew from global influences, combining army surplus from New York City, hats from Jamaica, and high fashion from Paris to create an entirely new visual language.

"These images are not contrived in that they were created without any preconceived agenda," explains Jamie Morgan. "They came about as a natural and authentic collaboration between myself and the stylist Ray Petri. They came out of a genuine exploration of image making inspired by everything we loved: music, art, sport and fashion." The photographer's instinctive approach to breaking down barriers resulted in photographs that blend Tom of Finland masculinity with Adam Ant punk sensibilities, utilizing Hollywood lighting techniques with the raw authenticity of 35mm reportage photography.

The creative process was deeply collaborative and intuitive, with Ray Petri's philosophy guiding their approach. "Ray always used to say start with the face and the rest will fall into place! We always started with who we wanted to shoot and then built the story around that character," Morgan recalls. This methodology led to some of their most memorable work, including a famous shoot with Nick Kamen where Morgan suggested removing the trousers from a classic British raincoat look, leaving the model in boxer shorts for a provocative yet natural aesthetic.

The book serves as both a celebration of 1980s culture and a tribute to Ray Petri, who died in 1989 from AIDS-related illness before receiving full recognition for his groundbreaking contributions to fashion. Petri's cutting-edge eye for fashion and aesthetic value helped establish the Buffalo movement as a defining force in contemporary style. Morgan emphasizes that their work wasn't solely about clothing but about creating a complete style philosophy that emphasized authenticity over artifice.

The project was sparked when Naomi Campbell requested Morgan use photographs from the mid-1980s for an exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. While searching through archives, Morgan rediscovered boxes of old negatives and contact sheets that transported him back to the era. "The smell of the celluloid film and markings on the contact sheets was a sensory treat that took me right back to the time," he reflects. "What really struck me the most was how contemporary they looked, a real testament to the styling of Ray and the influence of Buffalo in modern fashion."

The "1985" collection represents what Morgan describes as "all killer, no fillers," featuring sensual imagery that captures authentic youth culture and edgy street attitudes. The photographs document a transformative moment in cultural history when traditional fashion rules were being rewritten by a new generation of creatives who prioritized diversity, authenticity, and artistic expression over conventional beauty standards.

This comprehensive retrospective serves as both a historical document and a love letter to the "Buffalo boys and girls" who helped create the visual identity of the 1980s. The book ensures that Ray Petri's revolutionary vision and the Buffalo movement's lasting impact on fashion photography and youth culture will be preserved for future generations to study and appreciate.