Jeong Hwang-hah, a 28-year-old former tech designer, has transformed her career path to introduce makgeolli, Korea's traditional rice alcohol, to San Francisco's competitive dining scene. After years working as a user interaction designer for Airbnb and several artificial intelligence companies, Jeong opened Jilli SF this year, bringing Korean drinking culture to the heart of the Bay Area. The establishment is a San Francisco outpost of the popular Korean-inspired bar that originated in Los Angeles.
Jeong's motivation stems from her deep appreciation for Korean culture and her vision to create a communal space that bridges food, drink, and human connection in the United States. "I want Jilli SF to be seen as a Korean modern 'suljib,' but for everyone," Jeong explained. "I hope this place feels like a friend's home – somewhere you can drop by after work, even alone, and instantly feel at ease. Familiar, yet new." Her concept taps into the communal spirit of Seoul's drinking culture, repackaged for a West Coast audience seeking authenticity and discovery beyond typical Korean exports like K-pop and barbecue.
After spending years designing interfaces and AI products, Jeong recognized that people were craving more tangible, human experiences. "People are craving something real – real experiences, real human connection, real stories. That's what we're creating here, in these small spaces," she said. This realization led her to shift from the digital world to hospitality, where she could create meaningful face-to-face interactions.
The original Jilli, which means "truth" in Korean, operates in Los Angeles as a modern sool jib, a contemporary interpretation of traditional Korean drinking establishments. However, when CEO Dustin Donghyuk Lee approached Jeong about launching a San Francisco location, she adapted the concept to emphasize craft makgeolli and positioned it as a makgeolli tapas bar. "We have different targeting audiences. Jilli LA is in Koreatown, where it already brings in people in the neighborhood, whereas the San Francisco one is in the middle of nowhere, where it has to be a destination spot where people need to Uber from and to," she explained.
Located in San Francisco's trendy Mission District, Jilli SF has quickly become one of the city's most sought-after reservations since its June opening. The cozy corner space books up most nights, with the menu featuring 18 varieties of craft makgeolli paired with Korean-inspired small plates. Jeong's decision to spotlight makgeolli was influenced by both her personal passion and the Bay Area's health-conscious culture.
"Younger people today aren't drinking just to get drunk. They care about health and new experiences," Jeong noted. "That's why I wanted to focus more on makgeolli. Not many people in San Francisco have tried it or even heard of it, so I thought it would be meaningful to introduce this traditional Korean drink in a modern, approachable setting for a generation that's eager to discover something new." She particularly enjoys witnessing guests discover the lightly sweet, cloudy rice drink for the first time, paired with modern Korean-inspired dishes.
"For me, it's really about seeing people happy," Jeong said, laughing. "Sure, it's a lot of work, but when someone lights up over a bite of something delicious and says, 'This is amazing, you have to try it!' – that joy is contagious. I didn't create their happiness, but everything here – the music, the decor, every tiny detail – was designed with care. When someone leaves smiling, that means the world to me."
Jilli's bottle selection showcases craft makgeolli from American brewers, including Brooklyn's Hana Makgeolli and Southern California producers such as Sang Makgeolli and Nomi Doga. Jeong has observed remarkable growth in interest for Korean rice alcohol among Americans. "It's incredible. Just last week, I hosted a makgeolli brewers meet-up – about 10 of us gathered, each bringing our own homemade batches to share. Aside from one guest, everyone there was American," she said.
The growing enthusiasm reflects diverse discovery paths. "One person told me, 'I first read about makgeolli in a travel book. I had never tasted it and couldn't buy it anywhere, so I decided to make it myself.' Others said they discovered it while visiting Korea and started brewing to recreate that flavor back home. There's this wonderful, growing community of enthusiasts," Jeong explained.
Jeong's timing aligns with surging makgeolli popularity across North America. The United States ranks as the second-largest export market for makgeolli, following Japan. U.S. exports increased 7.9 percent from $2.56 million in 2022 to $2.76 million in 2023. Makgeolli sales in the United States reached an estimated $105.7 million in 2024, with projections showing the market more than doubling by 2035 at an estimated annual growth rate of 6.97 percent, according to Spherical Insights & Consulting.
The beverage's appeal stems from its reputation as a health-conscious, rice-based drink rich in lactic acid bacteria, combined with growing interest in low-alcohol options and continued fascination with Korean culture. When discussing makgeolli's unique characteristics, Jeong highlighted the fermentation process. "Fermentation is so fascinating because depending on how long you age it or what ingredients you use, the flavor completely changes. It's hard to recreate the exact same taste every time unless you're a commercial brewer, and that unpredictability is fun," she explained.
"Like, if I let it sit one more day or add burdock tea, I get a totally unique burdock makgeolli. You can't really make wine at home, but you can make your own fermented drink like this – that's what makes it special. I think that's why so many people start brewing it at home and eventually take it commercial," Jeong added.
To make Korea's centuries-old brew more accessible, Jilli SF offers various modern formats including makgeolli flights, artisanal bottles, and creative Korean-inspired tapas. Jeong describes the menu as "familiar comfort with a Korean kick." The makgeolli flight features four small pours with distinct flavors and colors that introduce newcomers to Korean rice alcohol.
The food menu combines familiar and innovative elements. Jilli's rigatoni alla vodka, a customer favorite, elevates the Italian pasta by incorporating kimchi into the sauce for added spice. "People are always amazed and amused by that. They already know what to expect from the dish, but the kimchi twist surprises them. It's playful in the best way," Jeong said.
Standout dishes include poutine topped with savory jjajang sauce instead of traditional gravy, creating a fusion of Korean-Chinese and Canadian comfort food. Another popular item features pork jowl marinated in gochujang and grilled over charcoal, served with tomato-based ssamjang and perilla leaf salsa verde that adds California brightness while maintaining Korean authenticity. The menu also includes honey butter chips, referencing Korea's cult-favorite snack, and fried chicken glazed in sweet-and-spicy sauce.
Jeong envisions Jilli SF as a launching pad for expanded ventures. "One day I'd love to build a sprawling luxury sauna – a place in a high-rise where people can combine yoga classes and meditation with sauna sessions and just truly revive themselves. Opening a tea house is another dream on my list. There are so many incredible things in Korea, but still so much that's yet to be discovered here," she concluded.
