Paolo Roversi, the internationally acclaimed fashion photographer known for his distinctive Polaroid work, reveals how his childhood in Ravenna, Italy, shaped his artistic vision through exposure to legendary opera voices including Beniamino Gigli, Tito Gobbi, Giuseppe di Stefano, Renata Tebaldi, and most notably, Maria Callas. The 76-year-old photographer, who has lived and worked in Paris since 1973, recently shared his deep connection to classical music and his regret at never having photographed the legendary opera diva.
Born in Ravenna in 1947, Roversi established himself as more than just a fashion photographer – he considers himself simply "a photographer and portraitist," as he describes himself. Throughout his career, he has worked alongside photography legends including Robert Frank, Peter Lindbergh, Guy Bourdin, and Helmut Newton. From his early training years, Roversi chose to work exclusively in studios using large format cameras or Polaroids, defining his unique aesthetic approach and working methodology.
Over the decades, Roversi has developed his own distinctive photographic language and instantly recognizable signature style. His work is characterized by soft, sepia-toned black and white images captured in natural daylight, contrasted with dense, deep colors achieved through flashlight illumination. This unique approach has made him one of the most sought-after photographers in the fashion industry.
Roversi's impressive client roster includes prestigious magazines such as Italian and French Vogue, Egoïste, and Elle. He has collaborated with renowned fashion designers including Yohji Yamamoto, Romeo Gigli, and Comme des Garçons. The world's top models have posed before his lens, and despite the apparent simplicity of their poses, each subject radiates an intense presence that has become his trademark.
Every fashion photograph Roversi creates functions as a portrait in his pursuit of beauty, constructing a singular body of work that appears timeless and immune to the passage of time. His artistic vision transforms commercial fashion photography into fine art, elevating each image beyond mere documentation of clothing or trends.
Roversi is currently represented by Camera Obscura gallery in Paris and Pace Gallery in New York, cementing his status in the fine art photography world. His work bridges the gap between commercial and artistic photography, earning recognition in both spheres.
In October 2025, Roversi released "The Scent of India," published by Atelier EXB, featuring his photographs alongside texts by Pier Paolo Pasolini. The project originated from Pasolini's 1961 journey to India with Alberto Moravia and Elsa Morante. Upon his return, Pasolini wrote "The Scent of India," documenting his impressions, nocturnal wanderings, and encounters during the trip. Pasolini's work captures his wonder and sensory experience of a different humanity, far removed from Western perceptions.
Thirty years after Pasolini's journey, Roversi presents an equally mystical and fabulous India, captured in his signature sepia tones and powdered colors. The variations in light and modeling of volumes create a dreamlike universe featuring crumbling marble palaces, small shops, streets populated by donkeys and sacred cows, sandy valleys shrouded in amber veils, and most prominently, portraits of women, men, and children that showcase Roversi's gentle and elegant perspective.
Whether concentrated on their tasks or posing for the photographer's lens, his subjects compose a kaleidoscopic portrait of India that echoes Pasolini's celebrated text, presented in a new translation. The collaboration demonstrates Roversi's ability to create visual narratives that complement and enhance literary works.
Roversi's other recent publications include "Letters on Light," a book of epistolary exchanges with philosopher Emanuele Coccia, published in March 2024 by Gallimard, and "Birds," with text by Guilhem Lesaffre, published by Xavier Barral in 2023. The "Birds" project features photographs taken in 2020 at Studio Luce in Paris, showcasing Roversi's continued exploration of natural subjects.
Looking ahead, Roversi has several exciting projects in development. The Louvre Museum has given him carte blanche to create a book about the institution, marking a significant recognition of his artistic vision. He also plans new publications with Stromboli, the publishing house he launched in 1999, where he publishes all his books as well as works by other photographers, including "The Machine" by Mario Sorrenti and "Entre nous" by Clara Belleville.
Reflecting on his artistic philosophy, Roversi quotes conductor Wilhelm Furtwängler: "Making music as a composer or as a performer is above all an act of love. This corresponds perfectly to my vision of photography... above all, an act of love." This sentiment encapsulates Roversi's approach to his craft, viewing each photograph as an expression of love and connection with his subjects.
The musical programming that accompanied Roversi's recent interview included works by the classical masters who influenced his aesthetic vision: Beethoven's Symphony No. 9 conducted by Wilhelm Furtwängler, Massenet's "Werther" featuring tenor Alfredo Kraus, Mozart's Requiem conducted by Carlo Maria Giulini, and performances by the Italian opera legends who shaped his childhood including Beniamino Gigli, Tito Gobbi, Maria Callas, Giuseppe di Stefano, and Renata Tebaldi. The selection also featured film music by Nino Rota from Fellini's "8½," connecting Roversi's visual artistry to the cinematic traditions of his homeland.
