The picturesque town of Aix-en-Provence in southern France is hosting a year-long celebration honoring Paul Cézanne, 186 years after the revolutionary artist's birth. The hometown that once rejected his work is now embracing its most famous son with an extensive exhibition featuring 130 paintings, drawings, and watercolors, along with guided walking tours through the locations that inspired his masterpieces.
Pablo Picasso famously called Cézanne "the father of us all," yet during his lifetime, the artist faced systematic rejection from the very institutions that now celebrate him. Bruno Ely, director of the Granet Museum, explains that Cézanne was simply too far ahead of his time. The museum, which initially refused to accept Cézanne's paintings, now houses a remarkable collection of his work as part of this special celebration.
Cézanne's innovative approach to painting was considered revolutionary and unacceptable during his era. His technique of leaving parts of canvases unpainted with visible white sections was deemed inadmissible by the artistic standards of his time. What was once criticized as "unfinished" work is now recognized as masterful artistic expression, including paintings of his family home that are considered masterpieces today.
The celebration incorporates Cézanne's favorite subjects and the actual locations that inspired his art, particularly Mont Sainte-Victoire, a mountain range he painted dozens of times throughout his career. Visitors can now walk in the artist's footsteps, experiencing the same landscapes that captivated him. The Bibemus quarries represent another significant location where Cézanne found inspiration in the natural geology and complementary colors of the rock formations.
Pauline Betancourt, who offers painting classes at these historic sites, emphasizes that Cézanne's fundamental philosophy centered on observing nature. The artist would often take 10 to 15 minutes between brush strokes, carefully studying the effects of light and color relationships. The steady, even light of Aix-en-Provence allowed Cézanne the time he needed for this meticulous approach. As Betancourt explains, Cézanne believed that "the landscape thinks itself and humanizes itself through me."
Several factors contributed to Cézanne's initial rejection by the art establishment. He came from a family that wasn't considered aristocracy, possessed a somewhat rough personal demeanor, and didn't follow traditional artistic training. Instead, his education came from directly studying nature and examining great works of art. Early in his career, he painted frescoes on the walls of his family home, which have since been carefully removed and preserved in collections.
The family estate, Jas de Bouffan, where Cézanne spent 40 years painting, has revealed surprising discoveries. Pierre Laforêt, who manages the property, recalls the excitement of finding original Cézanne frescoes hidden beneath layers of newer paint. The artist was just 20 years old when he began working there, creating a studio with windows positioned to capture northern light. Cézanne was particularly obsessed with painting the property's water feature from multiple angles and perspectives.
Laforêt remembers a time when Aix-en-Provence showed little appreciation for its famous resident, requiring art lovers to travel elsewhere to see Cézanne's work. An American art historian, John Rewald, played a crucial role in preserving Cézanne's legacy by creating a memorial committee in 1951 to purchase and save the artist's final studio from demolition. This studio, where Cézanne worked during the last six years of his life, remains intact thanks to these preservation efforts.
The current reversal in Aix-en-Provence's attitude toward Cézanne reflects a deeper understanding of his artistic contributions. His influence on modern art cannot be overstated, as he paved the way for the artists who followed. The hometown celebration, complete with traditional music and festivities, represents not just a tourist attraction but a genuine recognition of Cézanne's revolutionary impact on the art world and his lasting legacy as a master who transformed how we see and interpret the natural world.
