The Cleveland Museum of Art continues its impressive streak of blockbuster exhibitions with its latest and most ambitious fashion showcase to date. Opening Sunday, November 9, "Renaissance to Runway: The Enduring Italian Houses" represents the museum's largest fashion exhibition ever and one of its most ambitious cross-disciplinary projects. The groundbreaking show explores the deep connections between Italian Renaissance art and modern haute couture, demonstrating how Italy's most enduring export—fashion—continues to draw inspiration from centuries of artistic tradition.
The exhibition masterfully weaves together more than a century of fashion design with centuries of artistic influence, tracing the continuous thread between Italian Renaissance art and contemporary couture. More than 80 unique ensembles and garments, along with 40 jewelry pieces from legendary fashion houses including Versace, Valentino, Armani, Ferragamo, and Gucci, are displayed in dialogue with the museum's world-renowned collection of early Italian paintings, sculpture, and decorative arts. This creates both a literal and figurative conversation between brushstroke and hemline, connecting what once adorned Florence's Renaissance palaces with what now graces Milan's fashion runways.
Curated by Darnell-Jamal Lisby, the Cleveland Museum of Art's associate curator of fashion, "Renaissance to Runway" invites visitors to witness history reflected in haute couture—not as a mere echo of the past, but as an ongoing, living dialogue. "It's about cultural preservation and reinvention," Lisby explained in a statement. "Italian designers have long looked to the past not to replicate it, but to reimagine it." This philosophy is evident throughout the exhibition, where historical elements are seamlessly woven into contemporary designs.
Some of the exhibition's pairings are truly breathtaking in their execution and concept. A stunning burgundy velvet gown by Donatella Versace shimmers with metallic thread and precious gems, directly recalling the opulence of 16th-century textile design—the same type of luxury that was immortalized in Renaissance portraiture. Alberta Ferretti's fall 2015 ensemble demonstrates the evolution of lace collars from the partlets and ruffs popular in the 1500s, showing how historical elements can be transformed for modern wear. Ferragamo's 2023 Jewel Sandal, created under the direction of Maximilian Davis, offers a contemporary interpretation of a golden original the designer created for a client in 1956, successfully marrying historical ornamentation with modern comfort and ease.
The exhibition also highlights the work of contemporary designers who continue this tradition of drawing from Renaissance sources. Blumarine's Nicola Brognano looked to angels and sacred art for inspiration when creating his ethereal Evening Dress and Wings from spring 2024, featuring viscose, feathers, and brass elements. Similarly, Armani's 2018 Privé cape ripples with elegant plumed layers, serving as a nod to the concept of sprezzatura—the effortless grace that characterized Renaissance style and continues to influence Italian fashion today.
The exhibition doesn't overlook the important role of jewelry in Italian fashion heritage, giving proper recognition to renowned jewelry houses. Buccellati's Violante Pendant Brooch, with its intricate geometric patterns and multicolored golds, drew direct inspiration from the architectural elements of Renaissance palaces. Bulgari's 1984 Medusa necklace masterfully ties together myth and craftsmanship, featuring an engraved sardonyx centerpiece that invokes both Greek mythology and Caravaggio's famous artistic depiction of the Gorgon, demonstrating how ancient stories continue to inspire modern luxury design.
What makes "Renaissance to Runway" particularly compelling is its sense of continuity and relevance. Rather than relegating the Renaissance to a distant, gilded past, the exhibition threads these historical influences directly into our contemporary world. The fabrics, feathers, and decorative flourishes on display feel as relevant to today's red carpet events as they do to the frescoes and canvases that originally inspired them. This approach helps visitors understand that fashion history isn't static—it's a living, breathing evolution of ideas and aesthetics.
True to Cleveland's reputation for turning art openings into memorable cultural events, the Cleveland Museum of Art is ensuring that the opening weekend celebration matches the exhibition's grandeur. On Friday, November 7, the museum will host "MIX: Renaissance to Revolution," a special celebration themed around Beyoncé's Renaissance era. DJ Lily Jade and DJ Black Unicorn will spin disco and house tracks inspired by Queen Bey herself, with guests encouraged to arrive dressed in glamorous looks worthy of either the Italian runway or the dance floor, creating a perfect blend of high fashion and contemporary culture.
The educational programming continues with additional events designed to deepen visitors' understanding of the exhibition's themes. On Tuesday, December 2, Lisby will lead a lunchtime lecture titled "Coloring Renaissance to Runway: Fashioning Red in Italian Fashion." This presentation will explore the rich history of the color red in fashion—examining its significance as the dye of power, luxury, and seduction—tracing its journey from the Renaissance kermes beetle used to create red dyes to the iconic red gowns of contemporary Valentino collections.
Accompanying the exhibition is a lavish 200-page catalogue that serves as both a beautiful art book and a scholarly resource. The catalogue was art directed by Luca Stoppini, a former creative professional from Vogue Italia, ensuring it meets the highest standards of fashion publishing. It includes essays from distinguished fashion scholars, curators, and critics including Matteo Augello, Alessandra Arezzi Boza, and Luke Meagher from HautLeMode. The publication also features digital installations created by Francesco Carrozzini and Henry Hargreaves, who interpret the exhibition's themes through innovative photography and film work.
"Renaissance to Runway" ultimately transcends the boundaries of a traditional fashion exhibition to become something much more significant—a thoughtful meditation on legacy and the enduring power of creativity. It demonstrates how Italian artistic vision has not only endured through the centuries but has continued to evolve and seduce the world through exceptional beauty and masterful craftsmanship. The exhibition also reinforces what Cleveland art enthusiasts already know: that the Cleveland Museum of Art isn't simply keeping pace with the world's great museums—it's confidently setting its own distinctive rhythm in the cultural landscape.
Tickets are required for the exhibition and are currently available for purchase at clevelandart.org. "Renaissance to Runway: The Enduring Italian Houses" will run through Sunday, February 1, 2026, giving visitors ample time to experience this extraordinary celebration of Italian fashion heritage and its continuing influence on contemporary style.
